Holley Dominator Efi Instruction Manual

Holley Dominator Efi Instruction Manual

Compatible firmware is included in the software installer. Changes include updates to run Holley EFI Coyote VVT Module, Drive-By-Wire updates, and other items. For specifics, the V4 Revision log. V3 is updates are not needed for most users. Download these instructions. Do not update if your current software is 1.3. Contact Holley tech at 270-781-9741 if you have version 1.3. Answer The HP, Sniper, Avenger and Dominator systems have self tuning fuel strategy. Helpful? Question Can I run a DBW (Drive by Wire ) Throttle body. Answer The Dominator has integrated drive by wire throttle body control. For GM, Ford Coyote and late model Hemi. Helpful? Question Can I run a MSD type ignition with your EFI systems? Answer Yes capacitive discharge type ignition systems are compatible. Helpful? Question Do you need a lap top to get the engine running. Answer The Terminator, Sniper and Avenger Systems include a hand held programmer. The HP and Dominator systems require a laptop. All of the system can be tuned from a PC with compatible software. Helpful? Question Will your EFI system plug into my factory wiring harness. Answer Unfortunately no, All of our systems utilize a stand alone harness. Helpful? Question Can I run E-85 or Methanol. Answer The HP and Dominator systems can be programmed for any concentration of gasoline, Ethanol or Methanol. However you need to make sure that the fuel system including your fuel injectors are compatible. Helpful? Question Why should I choose Holley over another manufacturer. Answer There are other quality manufactures in the market place. Holley EFI systems offer flexibility and modular upgradability that is not offered by other manufactures. The base ECU used in a Terminator is the same ECU used in Arce and in NHRA pro stock. The level of customer support we offer is unmatched in the industry from the quality of our tech support, Dealer network and end user training classes. Holley will be there after the sale. Helpful?

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Question Are your injection systems emissions legal. Answer You will need to check local and state emissions regulations. Helpful? Question Are any of your systems sequential fire. Answer The HP and Dominator series of ECUs can be programmed for Sequential Fuel strategies. They will require a cam as well as a crank reference input. Helpful? Question Will your system control my factory transmission ABS brakes etc.? Answer The Dominator EFI has ability to run a GM 4L60E, 4L80E Ford AODE and 4R70W. HP and Dominator based ECU's can be programmed for TCC control on a 700r4 or 200r4. Helpful? Question What type of injectors and how many can the system run. Answer The HP ECU can run up to 16, high or low impedance injectors. It can stage two sets on a 4 cylinder. The Dominator ECU can run up to 24 high or low impedance injectors. It can run three sets with one staged on a 6 or 8 cylinder. The Sniper EFI system will be offered in a 4 and 8 injector option. Helpful? Question Does your system offer Nitrous control. Answer The HP ECU's have integrated Wet or Dry, Progressive and fixed NOS control for 4 stages, Dominator ECU's can support 8 stages. Helpful? Question Do your systems offer boost control. Answer The HP and Dominator systems offer Turbo boost control. Helpful? Question Can I run water meth. Answer Both the HP and Dominator systems have integrated water meth capabilities. Helpful? Question The instructions say I need to wire the main power and ground wire directly to the Battery. Is that really that important and can I hook it up someplace else like a distribution lug, starter solenoid or kill switch. Answer Yes it is very important. Connecting them directly to the battery is one of the most important steps of the installation. Failure to follow any installation instructions as minor as they may seem can result in performance issues including damage that will not be covered under warranty. Helpful? Question Does your system have traction control.

Answer The Holley HP and Dominator ecu based systems support traction control when used in conjunction with a Holley specific module offered by Davis traction control. Helpful? Question Will your EFI work with a turbo or other form of forced induction. Answer The HP and Dominator ecu's are compatible with 1- 9.9 Bar applications. The systems also has integrated boost control. Sniper EFI has a 2 bar integrated map sensor. Helpful? Question Are Terminator, Sniper, Avenger, HP and Dominator systems narrow or wide Band. Answer They are all wide band systems. The Dominator is dual channel capable. Helpful? Question Will your system run DIS. Answer The HP has 8 channel outputs the Dominator has 10 channels. Helpful? Question Do your systems support Transmission control. Helpful? Question Will your EFI system work with my Oddfire engine. Answer Currently we do not have an EFI system that has the ability to do timing control with unevenly spaced firing orders (odd fire). However, if you have an ignition system that has an RPM output, you can use our EFI for fuel control. Answer The HP ECU can run up to 16 high or low impedance injectors. The Dominator ECU can run up to 24 high or low impedance injectors It can run three sets with one staged on a 4 or 6 cylinder. Helpful? Question Where do I send my ECU to have it repaired. Answer Unfortunately we cannot repair the ECU because it is Potted. Potting the ecu provides several benefits. The down side is that a potted ECU cannot be repaired if it is damaged due to improper installation. Always read the instruction and follow proper installation procedures to avoid ECU damage. If you damage the USB port by pulling the cable out of the connector on the back of the ECU we may be able to repair it. Contact a tech service representative for more information pertaining to a damaged USB port. Helpful? Now, Holley EFI products power these cars and are dominating the performance world.

Holley products for GM's popular LS engine are dominating the LS scene as well. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies we can give you the edge you need over the competition. With that initial look, we looked at everything from self-learning to the base maps Holley provides. In the accompanying photos, we’ll dig into some of the wiring and hardware. This is one serious EFI system, and Summit Racing has them in stock, ready to go. For more, check out the following: Holley advises that these pins can be configured to perform jobs such as sense transbrake engagement (along with disengagement to release the two step), turn on a low oil pressure light, or even create a comprehensive data acquisition system (more on this later). The menu also allows you to input the firing order, input the knock sensor parameters (if they’re used), input parameters for cranking timing, and input parameters for rev limiters. Included is a primary rev limiter along with two limiters that can be set up based upon a programmable input signal (for example, a burnout limiter, or a launch limiter). The Soft type uses “soft cut” of ignition from individual cylinders as needed to bring the engine back to the low RPM limit (similar to a MSD Soft Touch rev control). Similar to the base fuel map, the spark map can be viewed and adjusted in a table or a graph form. This means you can continue to use an existing ignition setup (for example a MSD 7AL-2 box with a crank trigger). The Holley EFI easily integrates with it. The Dominator is capable of directly driving “Smart” ignition coils or Holley DIS coils. It will also drive 2 wire coils with the addition this Holley high current coil driver module. Holley notes that other electronically controlled transmission combinations are in the works and will be made available for the Dominator ECU soon.

With drive-by-wire, you can even set up the way the EFI responds to the pedal inputs (basically throttle position versus pedal position). Should you desire a sensitive racecar feel to the pedal, you can get that too. Not only that, the Dominator can also accommodate aftermarket sensors by way of a custom sensor calibration input. And it also includes integrated dual channel wide band oxygen sensor controls. If you have a nitrous or otherwise boosted combination, you can appreciate how valuable this feature is. More on nitrous and boosted applications later. The system includes twelve sequentially driven 8:2 peak and hold injector drivers, capable of driving up to 24 low or high impedance injectors as a standard feature. Because of this you can program multiple staged injectors in your combination. All of this really means you have the power to unlock the full potential of the engine combination. And for specific applications (for example, alcohol-fueled engines), Holley has recently released a programmable eight-channel injector driver module. This is for applications that require a large set of secondary injectors. This module features easily programmable injector current curves, injector test fire mode, two datalogger outputs, multiple peak and hold current settings, and more. Holley doesn’t “hard-code” system inputs and outputs on the Dominator. What this means is you make the choices—including what you name an input or output. Rated at 2A maximum There are also user programmable caution and warning outputs for all sensors.” Holley advises that the Boost Control can be configured to control boost based upon time, gear, speed, and manual inputs (gear based boost control is actually configurable by way of several different methods). You chose the solenoid configuration, select the control method and determine the operating mode. That’s not quite the end either.

With the Dominator Boost Builder, you have the ability to build boost on the starting line by altering ignition timing, fueling, or—get this—include nitrous oxide activation (yikes!). The time based control can be used to reduce power early in a ?-mile pass, and as you can well imagine, that’s extremely useful for a tire limited application or if you’re big into no prep racing and the track is sketchy a few seconds out. Needless to say, in an EFI application, the use of a dry nitrous system is often preferred because of the more precise fuel compensation that a nitrous nozzle can’t achieve. The Dominator will compensate with extra fuel to the injectors to maintain the correct AFR (and by the way the Dominator will look after this even if you forgot to program it that way). This allows for precise tuning based upon engine RPM and load and for the engine not to be over- or under-injected.”. That’s because they are flow-characterized for the system. The system allows you to import Racepak driveshaft curve and RPM data directly into your ECU. When you import crankshaft or driveshaft curves from previous passes, the curve will automatically populate on the graph.” Holley EFI can perform both PC and internal logging (when a laptop can’t be present). The number of items being logged as well as the rate of logging can be adjusted in the Datalog dropdown.” It can be triggered by any input including RPM, TPS, nitrous activation, oil pressure reading, or a toggle switch just to name a few. Holley EFI has a data overlay feature, which allows for a data log to be traced on any screen in the tuning software.” This high sampling rate can be helpful when trying to diagnose a malfunctioning sensor. Each view can be saved separately for quick reference.” When you dig into the Dominator, you find that the entire system is over-the-top comprehensive. Equally important, the system has been designed from the very beginning to be user friendly.

What’s more, Holley regularly provides free upgrades (users can simply download the upgrades from the Holley Website). State-of-today’s-art. No question and it’s all available right here, right now at Summit Racing. Harnesses can be ordered assembled or partially assembled (on the left is the trick tool Holley offers to complete the harness assembly).Here’s a shot of the screen for the Dominator Boost Setup.Included in the software is a gauge panel display for your computer.He’s owned his own speed shop, built race cars, street rods, and custom motorcycles, and restored muscle cars. He’s authored five how-to books and written over 4,500 tech articles that have appeared in sixty different high performance automotive, motorcycle and aviation magazines worldwide. Learn how your comment data is processed. All Rights Reserved. So if you desire the ultimate in tuning and flexibility for your fuel system, a custom-designed MPFI system is certainly for you. Among the many MPFI systems on the market, the Holley Dominator proved to be a leader. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link: You can copy and paste this link to share: Over the years, they’ve refined their formula to deliver results that are predictable in performance and offer them the utmost in flexibility in tuning. Pull any tuner aside and ask them what makes or breaks a particular EFI combination and they will tell you it’s the software. The software simply must be able to allow them the control they desire. The Holley Dominator system continues to be a real stand-out. As this book became a reality, I definitely wanted to include it, but first it had to pass the “Bill” test. Bill Surin owns the Olds in this chapter. It is the latest version of the throttle body. This CNC-billet throttle body flows all the air the 620 hp Olds 455 can ingest. (Photo Courtesy Holley Performance Products) He assembles his own engines and does his own tuning and he’s quite good at it.

He’s got the largest selection of Holley carburetor parts of anyone I know and is constantly tuning to achieve the best performance in the current weather. He’s also been talking for a while about converting to MPFI, especially since he’s seen firsthand how well the TBI setup on my Olds performs. In that book, we optimized the performance of the charging system and correctly wired the relocated battery. Once this was complete, we were then able to optimize the performance of the electric fans and headlights. Holley offers two ECUs that can be used as the basis for a custom MFPI system: the HP and the Dominator. Both use the same software, same harnesses, have a similar feature set, and are compatible with the following: When people see and hear it, they think it’s a 13-second car. Actually it runs 10.6 at 125 mph in the quarter-mile under Olds power. It’s bored.030 over, has a 950-cfm QFT E85 carb sitting on a port-matched Edelbrock Victor manifold, Edelbrock Performer cylinder heads, hydraulic roller, and custom billet main girdle. Also, Bill may add an overdrive transmission later. Holley has done a good job of making this process painless via the EFI Selection Chart on their website. In short order, Bill and I were able to determine the parts required. The throttle body is a 4500 flange and it flows 2,000 cfm and is more than double that of the carb it replaces. A 1,000-cfm version is available in a standard 4150 flange. Not shown are the fuel injectors E85 has a different stoichiometric ratio (9.8:1) than gasoline (14.7:1). In addition, E85 has a lower energy content than gasoline, which means quite simply that a given mass of E85 has less power potential than the same mass of gasoline. So, we knew right away that we needed to supply a greater mass of E85 to the engine than with gasoline. This affected the selection of fuel system components, including the fuel injectors.

You don’t need a laptop with the latest processor, a lot of RAM, or the latest operating system. Windows XP works fine, as does Windows 7. However, Windows7requiresafewsimple tweaks to allow the datalogger and other write functions to work. Specifically, you need to know: Document everything and keep the information in a place where you won’t lose track of it. You will need it when setting up your base tune later in the project. Bill determined that his combination works best with 31 degrees of timing both on the engine dyno and chassis dyno. Finally, he uses the Start Retard function of an MSD Digital-6 CD-style ignition box to retard 20 degrees of timing during start. All of these parts are fully compatible with the Holley system. By separating the installation into stages, you can simplify the process and ensure you complete each stage fully before proceeding to the next. Here is an overview of the four installation stages: This is not a project that you can do in a weekend. To achieve the results a system like this is capable of, it’s imperative to spend the effort required to perform each of the steps to the best of your ability. If in doubt, call in a friend to help before proceeding to the next step. In order to maximize functionality and performance of the system, you must perform or have a professional-quality installation performed. This is because Holley does not include any printed instructions with the Dominator EFI systems and you’re going to want to print out several documents(likelyfromyourdesktop PC).When the CHOOSE OPENING OPTION menu comes up, click on Cancel at the bottom of the window. All of the instructions are located in the Help Menu of the software. If you’re an accomplished welder and an expert TIG welder, you may elect to tackle this part on your own. He took our bone-stock Edelbrock Victor manifold and welded bungs in the intake runners for the injectors.

In addition, he cut fuel rails to length, constructed mounts for them to attach to the manifold, and threaded the ends for -8 straight-cut fittings. His pricing was very reasonable and the end result looks quite good. The injectors are mounted low in the runners so they have a straight shot into the intake port of the cylinder head. It is also the most critical because the electrical and fuel systems collectively determine the performance potential of the installation. As I mentioned earlier, we had already done this in Bill’s Olds. However, I suspected we were right at the maximum output Bill’s alternator was capable of making at idle (87 amps). I suspected this was the tipping point for the existing 12SI alternator, as Bill noted voltage was in the low-13s on his dash-mounted volt meter when cruising around. Because the charge lead and return path were already upgraded, we just need to swap out the alternator. We can’t even start on this project before addressing this and honestly, I had not been looking forward to fixing this mess despite Bill’s repeated attempts at bribing me to do so. It was time to pay the piper, so I bit the bullet and got busy. The benefit of owning an auto electric supply company is that I have parts on hand for a job like this. So I ripped it all out and redid everything. Don’t even consider taking on a project of this scale if the wiring under the dash of your vehicle looks anything like this. This neatly wired power center mounts to the firewall in place of the disaster shown in Figure 6.7. This process is lengthy and outside of the scope of this book. I’ve been preaching for years that you simply cannot get the output claimed from any alternator without properly grounding it. This unit came out of the box with a 2 AWG cable already affixed to the case for just that purpose.Notice the difference in the size of the output stud when compared to the Mechman unit in Figure 6.9.

Also, note the diode in-line on the exciter wire required to prevent run-on. The new-style regulator didn’t require it. Based on our needs, they recommended the 170A Model, rated to deliver 140 amp sat idle(800 engine RPM) and 170 amps at cruise (2,000 engine RPM)with a standard 3:1 pulley ratio. I was pleasantly surprised when I noticed that the BILLET-TECH 170A output at cruise RPM was actually measured at 1,800 engine RPM according to the sheet provided with it. It should be perfect. This measurement was taken at approximately 800 engine RPM. We simply had to enlarge the opening in the custom front engine plate to clear the charge stud and regulator harness. Note the 2 AWG charge lead. The brown 2 AWG lead is the return path for the alternator. Output current dropped from 87 to 81 amps as a result of this drop in voltage. This explains the lower-than-ideal 12.5 resting voltage of the battery. However, Bill’s Olds has a front engine plate and we had to modify it slightly to accommodate the larger output stud and larger regulator plug. It produced more than enough power to operate all of the accessories and charge the battery. This is what you want to see from a properly performing alternator. Once again, this measurement was taken at approximately 800 engine RPM. In fact, it has 49 amps of reserve over the base requirements of all accessories. That comes in handy for the second stage of the fuel pump, additional current required by the fuel injectors at WOT, nitrous driver and solenoid, nitrous bottle heater, etc. We fell only 2 amps short of the 141 amps reported by Mechman on the test certificate included with the alternator. This is to be expected in an installation like this where the battery is so far from the alternator. This certainly illustrates the importance of using the correct-size charge lead (2 AWG in this Olds) and a proper return path for the alternator (also 2 AWG).

In addition, we are able to rest easy knowing that the newly installed alternator is capable of making all the power our new components will ever need. This ensures they live a long and healthy life. He removed the factory tank, had a baffled sump installed with a pair of -8 bungs (one for the outlet and one for the return), and he uses the factory vent. The fuel lines are -8 Aeroquip push-locks for the feed and return. An Aeromotive 100-micron filter with shut-off valve, Fuelabs multi-speed fuel pump, and Mallory regulator rounded out the carbureted fuel system. It is basic, but very functional. We elected to retain the Aeromotive pre-filter as the shut-off valve is handy, especially considering that we could simply turn it off and make all of the upgrades you see here without draining the tank. There are two popular methods. We chose the simpler of the two for Bill’s Olds(see Figure6.17),which is illustrated in the installation manual included with the Holley fuel pumps. The other is illustrated in the sidebar “Plumbing High-Horsepower Applications” on page 106. In addition, we re-used several of Bill’s existing fuel lines. Hey, sometimes you do get lucky. It was necessary to purchase numerous -12 O-ring to -8 AN fittings, -8 O-ring fittings, and -8 straight-cut fittings for this installation. Upgrading it gives me the perfect opportunity to clean up all of Bill’s wiring. We used it in Bill’s Olds. It’s mounted along the frame rail, as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. Each has two pumps in a common housing and they share the inlet and outlet. Only one pump is required for cruising, and both are required for WOT in an effort to maintain fuel pressure. Therefore, each has independent power and ground leads for each of the internal pumps. I connected each of the internal pumps to its own 30-amp relay as shown in the installation manual. In addition, I fed each pump with 10 AWG and soldered all connections for the best performance and reliability.

I used a star washer under the ground eyelet to get a good bite into the metal. The black line behind the pump is the return. In one position, only one half of the pump is used. In the other position, both halves of the pump are used. (In Chapter 7, we interface the ECU to this to automate the circuit.) I simply re-wired the sockets with 10 AWG TXL for the power and pump connections, which are connected to terminals 87 and 30. Even though the instruction manual included with the 12-1400 pump suggests wiring each of the internal pumps with 12 AWG, I elected to use 10 AWG to further minimize voltage drop, which included re-wiring the relay sockets with 10 AWG. For now, I’ve wired the fuel pump so that it can be controlled directly from Bill’s dash-mounted fuel pumps witch(in Chapter 7,we automate it). Nice and clean, no exposed or unprotected wiring anywhere, and everything properly anchored. No need to rush a job like this; take your time and it will pay off. The component location complies with NHRA rules.The Aeroquip push-lock hose and ends are easy to assemble. Lubricate the ends with engine oil to reduce friction when assembling them. Also, avoid sharp bends or turns in the lines. This really is a simple fuel system. At this point, the fuel system is completed and we’re ready to move on to Stage Three. In addition, we need to interface the ignition system and install the ECU. Let the cell phone picture blasts begin. After we got that out of our system, the throttle body went back into its box and now it’s finally time to install it for real. We’re already thinking about how folks are going to react when they see this new jewelry under the hood at the next car show. Time for round two of cell phone picture blasts. I’ve long suspected the 950-cfm carburetor was a bottleneck at high RPM. We’ll soon see. Now it was time to get the linkage dialed in and this took a few hours to get right.

The challenge is to get the linkage to work properly without binding, permit WOT, and fit under the air cleaner assembly. Patience here is definitely a virtue. Specifically, you want to choose a location for the ECU, each of the sensors, and lay the main harness loosely in the vehicle to be sure that everything reaches. In addition, it’s preferable not to have a big length of “extra” harness that you’ve got to bundle somehow as a result of locating the ECU too close to the engine. In addition, the Dominator ECU is the largest ECU I’ve yet seen so it requires a fair chunk of real estate and should have good airflow around it. We elected to mount it under the hood. Specifically, we chose to locate it at the front of the passenger-side inner fender. This offered plenty of room, as well as the ability to route the main harness up through the area between the inner fender and fender, totally out of sight. The ECU has nylon bushings in each of the mounting tabs and includes stainless mounting hardware to prevent an electrical connection between the chassis of the ECU and the chassis of the vehicle, even when mounting it to a metal panel. The USB cable is permanently installed and it routes through the firewall. You don’t have to worry about moisture entering the ECU. I verified that it was long enough before settling on this location. I mention this because you most likely prefer to avoid extending any of these and you may be able to determine locations for each of the sensors that work perfectly with the harness as it is. In some cases, there is one location for a given sensor. In other cases, such as with CTS, IAT, and MAP sensors, you may have multiple locations to choose from. In this installation, I had to extend a few of the sensor sub-harnesses, which was not difficult, so don’t fret if you need to do this. Next in line was the crank trigger. The Holley big-block Chevy Crank Trigger Kit required a few simple modifications to work on the Olds 455.

Bill runs an ATI Olds balancer, which has a bolt pattern for a big-block Chevy crank pulley. Even so, it was still necessary to modify parts of the kit slightly to achieve a good fit. A qualified machine shop should perform this work. Specifically, Precision Research opened up the centering adapter by a few thousandths so that it fit perfectly around the harmonic balancer locating pilot. They also made a.090-inch-thick aluminum spacer that fits between the trigger wheel and the balancer. Although it was designed for big-block Chevys, Bill adapted it for use with the Olds 455 with help from Precision Research. (Photo Courtesy Holley Performance Products) They netted a perfect fit that required no modification to the balancer or lower crankshaft pulley. In addition, this Olds has a front engine plate so mounting the pickup assembly was a bit unique. Sure, the Chevy guys get all the cool parts, but that didn’t stand in our way here. In addition, it’s important to locate the pickup on a given tooth of the reluctor wheel with the engine resting at TDC. This is a 1 bar sensor, which is all you need for a naturally aspirated combination. Luckily, I had the perfect nut to secure it. We also could have located it in the manifold itself, which is pre-tapped for this, but we’ll be spraying a small shot of nitrous via a plate system. We want the option of having the IAT in fresh air. As a result, I had to lengthen a few of the sensor sub-harnesses, but none by more than 2 feet. All connections were soldered and insulated with adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing. Afterward, I re-loomed these sub-harnesses with split-braid tubing. You only forget to do that once... Thankfully, Bill had installed the brass T when installing the other sending unit many years ago, so all we had to do was remove the plug and thread the transducer in. Simple. When mounting a MAP sensor, you should always mount it in such a way that the barb points downward.