frigidaire oven manual f10

frigidaire oven manual f10

If this happens, you'll need to do some temperature-related troubleshooting. If your Frigidaire electric range senses that the temperature is going beyond acceptable limits, the F10 code will display and the range will automatically shut off to prevent damage. The oven will not come on until the temperature cools significantly. If this happens repeatedly, you can severely damage your oven. The sensor probe is supposed to detect the exact temperature in the Frigidaire electric range cavity and relay it to the oven's main control so it knows when to shut off the heating elements. Follow your wiring diagram to find the probe's location, which can differ among the models. Inspect it for any obvious damage such as cracks or tears in the wiring. Check it for ohms resistance by using a multimeter. Disconnect your oven's power and follow the probe's leads to the connecting points. Disconnect those and turn your multimeter to read ohms resistance. Place the red and black probe to each of the terminals. At room temperature, the probe should typically read around 1,100 ohms. If your reading is far above or below that, your probe needs to be replaced. A faulty thermostat could command the elements to heat beyond capacity if it isn't correctly reading the temperature control's limits.He works for a mental health non-profit in Northern California. Bright holds a Bachelor of Science in psychology from the University of North Carolina-Pembroke and a Master of Arts in psychology-marriage and family therapy from Brandman University. Show Comments. There are three things that can cause the f10 error code, a bad temperature sensor, a bad electronic control board or bad wiring between the two. So the first thing you want to do is test the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor is the probe you see sticking out of the back wall of the oven. It's either mounted to the back wall of the oven with two screws holding it in place or its mounted on the back side of the oven.

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If you don't see it directly on the back of the range as shown in the picture above, then take the back access panel off and look on the right side and you will see it mounted there. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, and use a ohm meter to test the resistance of the sensor, it should around 1100 ohms at room temperature, if it's not close then its bad and that is causing the error. The replacement sensor is linked below: If the wiring is good the main board has failed. To replace the control, remove the console access panel at the back of the console. There are just a few screws holding it in place. Once you have the cover off you will see the back of the control, it will be mounted to the console with a few more screws, remove those and unplug the wires, remove the old board and install the new one. Make sure to take a picture of the back of the board before unplugging the wiring so you know how the wires go back. The replacement board is linked below:. Our oven is showing the FT in error code whenever my wife cook something. I can turn off the breaker to the oven and cut it right back on and it clears the error. I Google searched it and watch some YouTube videos and i pull the front off of the oven to reveal the back of the circuitboard control board. So I can’t single out just the temp probe. Thanks for your help. Vince It runs around 22.00 for a new one. It can be ordered from the link below: If so and you are certain you have 1100 ohms or close at room temp on the sensor, you got a faulty control board wherever you got it from. Where can I buy the new wiring connecting to the Resistance Control Sensor? Thanking you in advance for your assistance. Regards. Nathalie Morin Just post a new question including the full model number, thanks. Hi, where can I buy a new wire linking to the resistance temperature sensor. Thank you for your assistance. Nathalie Morin Double check that model number and give us the correct model number if it's not correct.

If it is correct then I am sorry I will not be able to help you with this issue. Temperature probe and wiring check out ok. Can you provide the part number? Thanks. Need part for the main board You need to replace the main control on the range. You can order The control board for your model at the link below. I have verified it is the correct board for your model. You will be notified by email once your question is answered. Questions not Find the error you need help with in our database. If it's not in our database submit it on our code info request page. Clean these areas before the self-cleaning Follow broiling instructions Cut remaining Always place insert Regular cleaning is necessary when Old grease or food spatters cause excessive smoking. For example this will happen for pie spillovers or Wipe up excessive spillovers Try the selected feature again.:If the E or F Use razor blade scraper to remove soil. See Remove using a ceramic-glass Use cookware with clean, dry bottoms. The temperature sensor is the probe protruding out of the back of the oven. Remove the screws mounting the sensor to the back of the oven. Pull it forward and unplug the sensor from the wiring harness. Test it with a meter, it should have around 1100ohms at room temperature. If not its bad, replace it. If the meter tests good and the oven is still overheating, disconnect power. If oven continues to overheat when the power is reapplied, replace EOC. Severe overheating may require the entire oven to be replaced should damage be extensive. Need A Tech Sheet or User Manual For A Frigidaire Electric range FEF366ECD. When an oven fails, usually it will stop working and show on the display an error (fault) code which corresponds to a specific problem.A Actually there are only two major parts which, if anyone of them failed, could cause most of error codes. These parts are: Electronic Oven Control (EOC) and oven temperature sensor.

Frigidaire used the name RTD sensor or RTD probe, where RTD means “Resistance Temperature Detector” instead of oven temperature sensor. This part is usually located on the back wall in the upper part of the oven cavity but it can be easy tested from the EOC. Locate the two pins in the plug at the EOC that are connected to the sensor. Measure the resistance between the wires connected to these pins. The normal reading at the room temperature is supposed to be about 1100 Ohms. If the reading at the sensor is the same as reading at the EOC plug, the sensor is defective. If the reading at the sensor is correct, the wiring between the sensor and the control is defective. Frigidaire incorporated keypad into the electronic control board for most of the models and used just a faceplate or overlay which is adhered to electronic control board. It can be easily determined by the model number, usually located on the frame behind the bottom drawer or on the oven door frame. Use the “Search by the model number” link bellow to see if your range has a such part. If it does, I would recommend to order both of them because it’s very hard to remove faceplate and reattach it without damaging the part. If fault returns when power is reconnected, continue the troubleshooting. If the oven problem is intermittent you must do the tests when the oven is malfunctioning. There are probably over 50 different error codes but in this article we will review only the most common ones. Otherwise check the oven temperature sensor (RTD sensor) as described earlier and replace if necessary. If there are some relays on it, replace the EOC. If there are no relays on the EOC, check the parts list ( Search by the Model number ) for the relay or power board. If there is a such part, replace it. I’ll be glad to help you if any problems with the diagnostic. Just leave a comment on the bottom of the page. In such situation I’ll need the complete model number of the oven.

If the reading is incorrect and the wires and plugs between the sensor and the EOC are good, replace the temperature sensor (RTD probe). If the sensor and wiring are good, A the EOC would need to be replaced. If the reading is incorrect and the wires and plugs between the sensor and the EOC are good, replace the temperature sensor (RTD probe). If the sensor and wiring are good, replace the EOC. If there is something wrong, replace the door lock assembly. Check the wiring between the EOC and the lock motor and switches. If the lock motor, switches and wiring are good, the EOC would need to be replaced. Any help would be much appreciated. Its on Frigidaire FEFL69HCA Per your description the reading at the EOC is incorrect while the sensor itself checks OK. The cause of the problem in such situation most likely is a failed wire harness between the sensor and the EOC. I would recommend to eliminate the sensor plug and splice the sensor into the wire harness using a high temperature wire nuts. Still not working but the igniter fires up now. The temp sensor is 1119 ohms never any fault codes shown on the display.any ideas on what the problem is. If the igniter glows but the gas doesn’t flow, possible the igniter itself is to weak to open the gas safety valve. You may want to check the igniter by measuring the current drawn by the igniter. You can do it using a simple and inexpensive clamp-on meter 600-CF If you don’t like it then just replace the oven igniter. You can use an universal flat oven igniter, made by GE. All such igniters are interchangeable. The part number is WB2X9998 By the wiring diagram for your range, both oven heating elements getting power from the EOC. Thus the solution is to replace it. The part number for the EOC is 316462800. The overlay is self adhesive. You can try to use the old one but if you damage it, the part number for the overlay is 316419700 Good luck and keep us posted. Gene.

I read that you could try to cut the power to the range for a little while and see if the range would reset. As soon as I turn on the oven it started flashing the F30 error. You may want to start the troubleshooting from testing the temperature probe (sensor). Pull the range out of the wall and unplug it. Remove the rear control panel cover. Locate the P5 connector at the EOC and remove two violet wires from pins 12 and 13. Measure the resistance between these wires. The normal reading should be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature. If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe (sensor) would need to be replaced. The part number for the temperature probe is 316490000 You may need to replace the overlay as well. The part number for the EOC is 316557205 The part number for the overlay is 316419303 Sometimes while the oven is on but most of the time while the oven is cooling off. Usually an hour or so after it has been shut off. Both probes check 1178-1179 OHMS at the probe and the board. I do have several boards. Do you have a suggestion as to which board is acting up? Thank you If you receiving this error code while the oven is off and not heating then the solution for this problem is to replace the EOC. The part number for the EOC is 316576604 and you can order the part by clicking on the part number. If it would not solve the problem, you always can return the part for full refund. Keep me posted. Gene. She has had repeated problems with it stopping, locking up in the model of cooking, turning off, etc.The question I have is: does the oven control sensor store these failures. The problem with a warranty under the lemon agreement is that the failures must be verified by a technician. When the repairman come sout, the oven may be functioning properly, so it is hard to verify this intermittent problem. Could the oven control data be used to verify these failures, maybe downloaded by a tech ?

In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven. And if so, can you please help me identify the correct part to order on your website? Very likely the problem is a faulty relay board. It is located behind the control panel. Do not forget to turn off the oven circuit breaker prior to any disassembly. Locate the temperature sensor (RTD) plug on the control board (EOC). Carefully pull it out and, using an Ohmmeter, check the resistance between the sensor wires. It suppose to be about 1100 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect check the sensor wire harness and repeat the continuity test at the RTD bottom plug. If the reading is still incorrect, the RTD would need to be replaced. Otherwise the EOC is the culprit and would need to be replaced. Keep me posted. Gene. This error code indicates a failed potentiometer for LF burner, a user interface board or the harness between the mother board and the user interface boards. Start the troubleshooting from verifying the resistance value of the potentiometer. There are two different potentiometers with the ESEC control system. The one in question is black colored. If the reading is correct, test operation of the potentiometer by measuring the resistance between pin terminal G (center) and either of the outside pin terminals as the control shaft is being rotated slowly. There should be a steady increase or decrease in the measured resistance as the shaft is turned. Otherwise if the wire harnesses are good, the user interface board would need to be replaced. When I check the EOC it give a random number and goes back to OL on the tester. I have a used stove of the same kind just different color. When I test those two part on it I get the same results. Is it me or do I have two bad EOC’s? I was out of town. This error code means that EOC thinks a runaway condition exists. Per your description the temperature sensor checks OK. You can not check the EOC instrumentally.

So the only solution is to replace the EOC. Keep me posted. Good luck. Gene. It was 1 hr into baking and the temperature did runaway, everything was black. I was able to use it a couple times after but the cooking times varied between a little slow and A LOT slow. I then received a 2nd f10 error and this time because I was only running my oven when I could babysit it, I want to say that my oven decided to go into broil mode because it happened quickly ( We pulled out the oven temperature sensor. It measured 1050 ohms, we then tested it back at the EOC, same reading. So we took out every heating element, inspected and tested them and we had continuity. So we were back to blaming the EOC. Especially since the EOC had failed once before on warranty (it completely burned out and wouldn't work at all) and the repair tech told me that self clean was likely to blame with the self clean heat being horrible for electronics. The rapid preheat would report that the oven was heated but if you cancelled that and initiated any other regular (without rapid preheat) heating mode (convection, roast, bake) they would all say the oven was 150 degrees behind what the rapid preheat gave. I bought laser thermometer for the oven and it would verify the lower temperature. Also, it currently takes my oven at least 45 mins to heat up. This is why we were back to thinking that the electronics weren't working. Please help! In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven and the part number of the EOC you installed. In regards to my Electrolux Icon electric wall oven E30EW75GPS1 If you would order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com by clocking on the part number I posted, you have nothing to loose. If it would not fix the problem you have up to 365 days to return the part for full refund. The EOC that we ordered was 316576600. Thank you in advance! Valerie You may want to replace it as well.

I have heard a few times what sounded like it shorting out from the control knobs on the right side. I dont know model number but do think the stove could have shorted out and it ave a f10 code You can find it on the range frame behind the bottom drawer. Model number is FFEF3011LWD The relay board is located behind the oven rear panel what means you do have to pull the oven of the cabinet. As soon as you remove the rear panel the board should be visible. Do not forget to remove the power from the oven prior to repair. If the error code returns, the EOC would need to be replaced. Also, just a side note I have purchased various parts from appliancepartspros.com over the years and have always been very happy, top notch business. She hit oven cancel and it went off but then started beeping again and the same code appeared. She noticed the oven was cooking very hot. I had noticed the same thing earlier in the day while baking chicken but no code came up at that time.The cause of the problem can be a failed lock motor switches or a failed EOC. Unfortunately both parts have been discontinued and are no longer available.Our oven flashed F10 and went into runaway temps. With the diagnostics above, I was able to pretty quickly determine that the EOC was bad. Replaced it and was back in business. Is there a way to calibrate the EOC? Happy holidays! Gene. We just had a something similar to what happened to Len yesterday. My wife was baking cookies at 350 and the stove tripped the breaker. I checked and reset the breaker only to have the oven (316233850) alarmed and locked the door like it was going into the clean. I was able to clear the lock and the oven gave an F1 code. I checked the sensor and and it checked at 1100. The part number you posted is for the panel which has nothing to do with this problem. I checked the sensor and and it checked at 1100. The oven keeps beeping top range is working. It would need to be replaced. The lower oven has no issues.

Would the most likely problem be the temp. sensor??? Remove the rear panel and locate the relay board. Check the upper oven temperature sensor by measuring resistance between two wires connected to the pin 9 and 10 at the plug P27. The normal reading should be about 1100 Ohms at room temperature. If the reading is incorrect, the temperature sensor would need to be replaced. Otherwise the relay board is the culprit. In order to determine ETA you may want to click on the following link to chat with a representative. AppliancePartsPros.com Is there a way to silence the alarm so we can still use the range? Unplug the range and remove the rear panel. Unplug from the EOC the black wire connected to the L1 terminal and insulate it using an electric insulation tape. Assemble it back and reapply power to the range. The display should be blank. I placed my order for the needed EOC today. I decided just to keep the range unplugged until the new EOC is installed. I just wanted to let you know, the relay board did indeed solve the issue. In fact the old one had black marks on it you could tell it was bad. I got the code f11 and it won’t stop beeping. I pressed the cancel button, but the error comes back. Everything works fine. In this range there are no a separate keypad. Thus the solution is to replace the timer which comes together with the overlay. Keep me posted please. After several power-cycles with the same error, I came to your page. It does indeed appear to be the Temperature Probe as the plastic wire harness connector is melted. I checked the resistance on the probe’s bare wires and it reads 1099 ohms. The oven throws F30 regardless of whether the probe is attached. The wiring harness resistance indicates no connectivity (the purple wires coming from the EOC). I’m thinking that replacing the wiring harness might be warranted, but it looks like a chore to access the rest of it, and I don’t see a part number for it anyway. Do you have a suggestion.

For now, I guess I’ll remove all remnant melted plastic from the connectors to rule out a short inside that molten mess. You can get them in a hard ware store or order from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the following part number. I just cleaned up the melted connector, taped it, and repositioned it outside of the insulation where it won’t get so hot in the future. Thanks again! It is giving F11 error. Starts beeping then stops and starts again after a while. The burners work fine, oven cannot be used. Any suggestion is highly appreciated. There is no a separate keypad in your range. Thus, the solution is to replace the EOC. Did the motor run or not. Also the model number you posted is incomplete. There suppose to be one more letter. Please verify the model number and repost it. If you got both error codes while the oven was in day time mode, the correction is to replace the EOC. You may want to replace it together with the overlay. This job is pretty easy if you know how to handle a simple tools. I replaced the EOC and it has been fine for about 3 months and now is doing it again. It gives me the F10 error sporadically. Usually a few hours or so after it has been shut off. Could the EOC be bad again or is there something else I should look at? Thank you Sounds like the EOC has gone bad again. Sad news. But if you bought it from AppliancePartsPros.com then you can easy return the part for warranty exchange. Just call their customer service. Or why this part keeps damaging..thank you In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the oven. Where did you get the EOC you replaced recently? Once I cut power and reset it it seems to work, till it repeats. My question is this, would that be the main culprit. Or do you think there may be more to the problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I don’t think anything else but EOC is the main culprit. No doubt about it and a new one would fix the problem.

Also, if it would not and you ordered the part from AppliancePArtsPros.com, you can return it within 365 days. When I replace the EOC again do you think I need to be concerned with the Molex connectors for the temp probes on both ovens. I have seen many articles online about those connectors not being very good. What are your thoughts? It happens very often with GE products. But it would not hurt if you will eliminate those plugs and splice the wires using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts. Could you please explain what this is. Thanks Do i have just 1 problem or 2 problems, i am not sure what i need to order. Any help would be great, thank you. To save time you may want to order both parts together. If you order them from AppliancePartsPros.com, you can return unneeded part later with full refund. I have a Frigidaire model FFGF3047LSF. Should I replace the EOC.If this error code has been shown while the oven was not cooking then the EOC would need to be replaced. Had a F10 error code.Replaced temp probe and same thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. What is the part number of the new EOC and where did you get from. Sounds like the EOC is the culprit. Is there a way to calibrate it? None of the control panel would stop it, so we had to flip the breaker. When I used the oven the next day to heat taco shells, it got really hot (burnt them to chars!) and then the F10 code went off again- this time I was able to cancel it with the cancel button and turn off the oven. I checked the RTD probe out and it reads okay (1080 or so). So should my next step be to get a new EOC. I am confused if it’s the EOC or if there could be a problem with the oven relay board. instead. THanks! Remove the rear panel and locate two small power supply boards right next to the oven relay board. Unplug P1 connectors from both of the power supply boards and restore the power to the range. If the oven will continue to heat, the oven relay board would need to replaced.

Otherwise the EOC is the culprit. There is a separate membrane switch in your range which would need to be replaced in such situation. Unfortunately this part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available. Sorry for such sad news. The normal reading at the room temperature suppose to be about 1100 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, the temperature probe would need to be replaced. Otherwise the EOC is the culprit. When we unplugged both of the P1 connectors and restored the power to the range the touchscreen was blank (no power), so I couldn’t turn the oven on to see if it would still overheat. We ordered both the parts, tried the EOC first, with no fix. Then when we started removing the relay board we found out it was fried (black soot). The relay board turned out to be the problem, and our oven is back in action for taco night:) One more question for you though. When we were changing out the EOC one of the ribbon connectors (that connects the EOC to the TST control panel) pulled apart. Some of the teeth came out of the little black plastic end cap. I managed to push them back into the cap, and we were able to reconnect it to the EOC board, but at least one of them broke off. All of the touch screen buttons still work, so should I be concerned. It was the larger ribbon connector on the right.I’m lucky because it did not happen to me, but I have heard about such problems. This particular control panel was designed for this model only. I do not think they will keep it available for more than five years since production started. Thus the question is: are you really like this range and going to keep it or you will replace it as soon as the control panel will die? My range is possessed. I have spent lots of time researching my issue and can not find anyone else describing this particular problem. The range is beeping with the error code F11. Now that seems common, but here is where the strange part comes in, the beeping and error.

I can push the button in that turns off the oven light and makes the oven think the door is closed, and it will immediately start beeping and showing F11 again. The new one should solve it. Frigidaire professional series FGFLMC55GCC The broiler automatically turns on by itself and I cannot turn it off without unplugging it. A code never flashed on the screen. The clock turns on but will not allw me to adjust it and once again the broiler automatically turned on however this time the screen flassed the F11 error. I am lost as to how to proceed next as the touchpad was included with the new EOC? It has to be exchanged under the part warranty. Contact the seller and request the replacement. Disconnect the broiler igniter wires and check for continuity between each wire coming to the igniter and the chassis. Both of them should read no continuity. If any of the readings is incorrect (any resistance other than infinity), trace that wire and let me know where it goes to. We will proceed further. The cause of this problem is a faulty EOC. I pulled it off, are you sure you’re referring to the correct model? If you would like to replace it too, I need one more letter from the model number to get the correct part number for you. The part number for the EOC is correct. And the last letter to the model is F. The ribbon you mentioned earlier is a part of EOC and has nothing to do with the overlay (keypad). I understand your point but only replacement of the EOC would fix the problem. Hi gene- I have a runnaway temp issue. Code f10. I have replaced the eoc and the temp sensor. My issue has not changed. The broiler element runs non stop. Is there a relay pack that I should be looking at. Thanks for your help In order to access it you would need to remove the oven from the cabinet. This part is the culprit, no doubt about it. If you ordered the EOC and the temperature sensor from AppliancePartsPros.

I checked the other plastic connector (from the EOC side) and received above 1650 ohms. The EOC board was recently replaced (F10 went away after new board was installed, but now it is back). Thanks in advance! I would recommend to eliminate the probe plastic connector and just splice the wires using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts. You can order them from AppliancePartsPros.com by clicking on the following link. My range is a CEW30ef6gsc. The front left burner has quit working but only the center burner, not the outer two rings. Is this the burner element. Why wouldn’t the whole burner quit. Thanks, Valerie Any of these coils are not serviceable. Thus if any of them failed, the whole heating element would need to be replaced. Here is my previous reply: “Hello Valerie, Thank you for your question. Very likely the heating element for this burner would need to be replaced but, because the part is really expensive, you may want to check the central coil for continuity prior to order the new part. If there is no continuity, the heating element is the culprit. The part number for the triple heating element is 316216703 Good luck.” I am still receiving the repeating F10 error code. The wires look OK (no visible external wear) from the plastic connector in the back of the EOC module down to the metal bracket holding the RTD temperature sensor into the back of the oven. I am unsure how to check every individual wire in the harness (if that is the suggested next step). Frigidaire does not sell such harness but you can find a similar wires in a local electric or hardware store. I washed the surface of the stove earlier today and when I turned the oven on it shot a flame out where the heat and condensation come out on top. The keypad would not stop beeping and flashed an F11 code. I disconnected the stove and plugged it back in, the broil and oven elements still do not work and they visibly appear fine. Thank you for your help.